Mobile safari meanderings in Botswana

by
Simon Espley
Friday, 15th September 2017

© http://www.freepik.com, designed by Evasplace

What I miss most about fly-in safaris is the satisfaction of having journeyed. After all, the Swahili word ‘safari’ is derived from ‘safar’, the Arabic word for journey.

Don’t get me wrong. For time-strapped holidaymakers, flying to your lodge saves time and offers a different perspective of the bushveld. But, there’s something immensely satisfying about loading up your kit and navigating bush tracks to reach your destination.

Although most of us don’t have the equipment or experience to do this ourselves, fear not. In Botswana, you can still experience a mobile safari while others do the hard work.

In May this year, I joined a mobile safari through the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana. You can book an entire mobile expedition for your family and friends, but, as a single traveller (my wife was holding the fort at home), I latched onto an existing expedition.

My travel companions were a German fellow (also sans his wife) and a wonderful family of five from the Dominican Republic on their annual holiday. Each year, this spirited family journeys in the real sense. They pick a destination and experience it in as granular a way as possible. On this safari, they’d already slept under Namibian desert stars and driven themselves through Namibia to Botswana.

safari, safari vehicle, people, Moremi, Botswana

Coffee stop on the way from Xakanaxa (Moremi) to Khwai © The Lopez Family

They were now on a mobile safari from Maun to Kasane, travelling through the wildlife gems of Moremi, Khwai, Savute and Chobe. I journeyed with them until Khwai, where I hopped off to spend time at a few lodges before flying back to Cape Town from Maun.

View a video on mobile safaris in Botswana below

To read more about the mobile safari experience, continue reading below the advert

Camps that leave no trace

Let’s talk accommodation, because many people use that filter to help them decide on their next safari.

The hard-working back-up crew drove ahead of us to set up camp and prepare meals. It was an amazing feeling to arrive at a new campsite after a morning of game viewing to find our home all built and snugly ready for us.

tented camp, canvas tent, safari, Africa

A Meru-style tent © Simon Espley

Each campsite we used was exclusively ours for that period, so there was a sense of absolute privacy that added to the appeal. You can choose between large, luxury Meru-style tents, which I enjoyed, or smaller dome-style tents, which my colleague Christian Boix thoroughly enjoyed earlier this year when he booked a mobile safari for his family.

Pictures do a better job of describing the campsite than I can. But, I will say that, having stayed at many lodges of all luxury levels in my 25 years in this business, these Meru-styled mobile camps do it for me.

inside a tented camp, canvas tent, African safari

The inside of a typical Meru-styled mobile safari tent © Okavango Expeditions

Each tent has an en-suite bathroom with a bucket shower – a large canvas bag filled with water heated over a wood fire. There’s also a bush toilet: a deep hole dug in the ground, covered by a throne to remind you of home.

Once the crew dismantles your campsite, all that remains is footprints. The loo pits are filled in and your contribution to local biodiversity is soon composted.

mobile camp safari, dining area, tables and chairs, Africa

Each mobile safari camp has a dining area with a canvas roof © Okavango Expeditions

To read about life on a mobile safari in the Okavango Delta, continue reading below the advert

 

A potent digital detox

Perhaps you’re wondering about internet access? Well, once you’re clear of Maun and Kasane, there is none. This is an opportunity to detox from that incessant social media chatter. Instead, you’ll have time to tune into bush chatter: tree squirrel alarm calls, distant leopard grunts, and the perpetual burbling backing track of insects and birds.

African safari, safari vehicle, log, forest

Coffee breaks during early morning game drives – a quintessentially African experience! © Simon Espley

There’s a rhythm to mobile safaris that encourages you to truly, seriously unwind. On a ten-day safari, you’ll typically be based in three or four areas for a few days each, with travel days in-between.

And, aside from the first day’s drive from Maun to Moremi, even travel days are just an extended game drive, ending at a new campsite in the early or mid-afternoon after a bush lunch along the way.

mobile tented safari camp, African safari

Mobile safari camps are set up to have the least impact on the environment, and once packed away, only footprints remain © Okavango Expeditions

Time takes on a different meaning on a mobile safari, perhaps because you have more of it. Our guide Sam was extremely relaxed. He knew that with the ten full days at his disposal, and the wide range of habitats we’d journey through, he’d be able to show his guests all the most sought-after species, including lions, leopards and wild dogs.

And, he was right. Compare that to the unfortunate fly-in safari guides who have only a few hours a day and perhaps three days in total to deliver on a long laundry list of expectations.

leopard in a tree, big cat, big 5 animal, African safari

Leopards are amongst the most sought-after of wildlife sightings, and regularly seen on mobile safaris © Okavango Expeditions

lion, male, walking, African safari, big 5 animal

The Okavango is one of the strongholds of Africa’s lions © Okavango Expeditions

African wild dog, wildlife, African safari

Wild dogs are regularly seen during mobile safaris in northern Botswana © Okavango Expeditions

The slow safari schedule

Each day, you leave camp first thing in the morning after coffee and a light breakfast to catch the early morning ‘newspaper’ – tracks and other signs left by wildlife. After some fantastic wildlife encounters and a stop for coffee and biscuits (ask for Amarula in your coffee – yum!) you meander back to camp by late morning for brunch. This is followed by downtime and a siesta.

mobile tented camp, African safari, elephant, big 5 animal

Safety is paramount, because animals frequently move through mobile camps © Christian Boix

Late afternoon brings tea and cake before you head out for another game drive. There’ll be sundowner drinks and snacks somewhere out there. Shortly after dark you’re back in camp for campfire stories accompanied by your favourite tipple (or two) and a delicious dinner cooked over the fire by talented bush-chefs.  

bread baked in a pot, food, cuisine, African safari, food on safari

© Simon Espley

With heavy eyes and a full tummy, you stagger to bed. Your lullabies are sung by hyenas, lions, leopards, hippos, nightjars, and several species of owls.

Yes, you may just pick up a pound or two because you’ll be pampered, bush-style, from dawn to dusk. But, you’ll also recharge your batteries and reconnect with the real you. Safari njema

Continue reading below for more information about Moremi and the Okavango Delta 

wildlife, landscape, African safari, zebra at a river, Botswana

Botswana – big sky country © Okavango Expeditions

To read more about Moremi and the Okavango Delta, continue reading below the advert

Moremi Game Reserve

Moremi makes up about 26 percent of the renowned Okavango Delta. It’s largely dedicated to self-drive tourists and mobile safari operators. It was the first reserve in Africa to be established by local residents.

The Batawana people of Ngamiland were concerned by the rapid depletion of wildlife due to uncontrolled hunting and cattle encroachment. In 1963, under the leadership of the late Chief Moremi III’s wife, they took the bold initiative to proclaim Moremi a game reserve.

boat, river, mokoro, Khwai River, Botswana, African safari

Mokoro outing on the Khwai River – a great way to see the area from a different perspective © The Lopez Family

The Okavango Delta comprises more than 15,000 km² of watery paradise. It’s a lush wilderness of papyrus, impenetrable reed beds, grassy floodplains, and tree-covered islands.

The complex network of water channels of varying depths are engineered and maintained by hippos and elephants. Some areas are permanently underwater. Others are submerged only when the annual floodwaters arrive from Angola.

The constant ebb and flow of water creates one of the most fascinating and diverse ecosystems on the planet. Unsurprisingly, the Okavango Delta is both a RAMSAR Site and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

boat safari, Botswana, elephant, river, wildlife

No safari to the Okavango Delta is complete without a mokoro outing © Okavango Expeditions

The Okavango Delta is not a national park, and so there are fewer restrictions on activities. Off-road driving when searching for or following game is allowed, as are night drives and walking safaris. Unlike the national parks, the Okavango is largely unavailable to self-drive tourists (except for the Moremi section), so your safari is likely to be private and exclusive.

A bucket list activity unique to this area is gliding down the myriad of waterways on a mokoro (a traditional dugout canoe).

Your poler guide will expertly slide the mokoro along channels surrounded by tall papyrus and reeds, giving you a unique perspective and fantastic photographic opportunities as you silently sneak up on birds, frogs, otters and possibly even larger animals such as hippos, crocodiles and elephants. A lucky few will see the elusive and wary sitatunga antelope.

To learn more about the Okavango Delta experience, continue reading below the advert

boat, river, elephant, reeds, wildlife, African safari

Boat-based excursions are a relaxing and alternative way to encounter Moremi wildlife © Christian Boix

Wildlife includes the Big 5 (lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino), many antelope species, zebras, giraffes, hippos, and crocodiles. There are good populations of cheetahs, hyenas and wild dogs, as well as a plethora of smaller species such as serval, aardwolf, pangolin, aardvark and bat-eared fox. You will see more wildlife in areas that are not permanently flooded.

Birdwatching can be spectacular. There are over 400 species including avian jewels such as Pel’s fishing owl, slaty egret, pygmy goose, crowned and wattled cranes, western banded snake-eagle, coppery-tailed coucal and colonies of incandescent carmine bee-eaters.

 

Travel with Africa Geographic

For more details about this mobile safari, click here.

Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early or late and a few kilometers off course and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity? Read more about Botswana here, or contact an Africa Geographic safari consultant to plan your dream vacation.

Getting there

Simon’s flights from Cape Town to Maun, Botswana were arranged by Airlink, who offer multi-destination flight options across southern Africa and a convenient Lodge Link program, direct to popular lodges in the greater Kruger National Park and beyond.

To read more about the author, continue reading below the advert

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Simon Espley is an African of the digital tribe, a chartered accountant and CEO of Africa Geographic. His travels in Africa are in search of wilderness, real people with interesting stories and elusive birds. He lives in Cape Town with his wife Lizz and 2 Jack Russells, and when not travelling or working he will be on his mountain bike somewhere out there. His motto is ‘Live for now, have fun, be good, tread lightly and respect others. And embrace change.’

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  • Schroederville

    This looks amazing! I would love to see Botswana and the Okavango Delta. The whole expderience looks beautiful. Maybe next time. My trip to South Africa is approaching and we already have it booked and planned.
    I have to say, It’s a shame to see the hunting areas in that map. I HATE trophy hunting, it is a vile old holdover from colonial days and we need to be PROTECTING animals now, not killing them. Killing is NOT conservation, don’t believe the LIES that the hunting industry tells. I regularly see photos of pathetic rich old bastards holding up dead animals, often endangered ones, like leopards, and grinning like they made some sort of manly conquest. It’s abhorrent and sick.

    • Simon Espley

      Hi Schroederville, Botswana no longer permits hunting – Google maps are outdated.

      • Schroederville

        That’s what I thought. I was confused as to where the country borders were according to that map. I’d like to see ALL hunting of apex predators stopped.

        • Ed Camilleri

          How I would like to see the world sharing your views on hunting! It’s becoming beyond disgusting, a rich individual pays a large sum of money to kill a healthy animal, instead of using part of same money to enjoy wildlife in a safari.

          • Lyn Peel

            I share you disdain for this practice but it’s my understanding that only very old and incapacitated animals are allowed to be the subject of these trophy hunting shoots. Perhaps if it really is true that the trophy shoots finance a substantial part of the rest of the park it is something which ultimately helps protect the more healthy animals?

          • Ed Camilleri

            I’m not so sure Lyn. Some countries like Namibia do offer old animals like rhinos for hunting, but others like Zimbabwe not. Also Zambia offered many animals including lions for hunting, without any selection- but now this abhorrent practice was suspended, I hope permanently

      • Christian Boix Hinzen

        Hi Schroederville, Christian Boix here Director of Travel at Africa Geographic. We would love to assist you with your plans to visit Botswana next year, so please feel free to inbox me whenever you are ready (christian@africageographic.com) and what better way to celebrate and support Botswana’s valliant hunting ban.

        • Schroederville

          Thank you, Christian! I am traveling to South Africa in May of 2018, so it may be some time before I can make it to Botswana, but I really want to. I’d love to spend my money where the killing of animals for trophies is NOT allowed or glorified! Thanks so much. I’ll keep your contact for later.

          • Christian Boix Hinzen

            Excellent, enjoy your travels and looking forward to hear from you when its time to plan your next pilgrimage to Africa.