South Luangwa

On safari in South Luangwa

by
Sarah Kindgom
Friday, 6th January 2017

“Turn left. Continue along the road, through a dry riverbed. When the road forks, keep to the left.” We were 371km from home, six hours into our journey, and at the bottom of page two of a three-page printout of detailed instructions describing how to get to South Luangwa National Park in Zambia.

We weren’t taking the usual route into the park. We’d decided to take a more adventurous approach, entering the park from the north, down the Muchinga Escarpment. The directions were explicit: “The road over the escarpment requires high clearance, four wheel drive and low range. The road is seldom used. Waiting for help if you break down might take days.”

The 450km drive took us eight hours to complete. One 12km stretch down the escarpment took an hour to cover. I spent most of that time with my foot firmly on an imaginary brake as my husband negotiated the steep and rocky descent.

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Elephants crossing the Luangwa River at sunset © Peter Geraerdts

Teeming with wildlife

The Luangwa Valley marks the end of the Great Rift Valley. The Muchinga Escarpment forms the northern and western boundary of the Luangwa Valley and South Luangwa National Park. Starting in Miombo woodland, the escarpment slopes down through Mopane woodland to the valley floor. This is covered in swathes of grassland, which ultimately become the floodplains of the Luangwa River. Most of the park is on the western banks of the Luangwa River, which is its lifeblood.

South Luangwa is probably one of the most unspoilt natural habitats remaining in Africa. Founded as a game reserve in 1938, this 9,059km² area became a national park in 1972. It has some of the highest concentrations of animals on the continent.

Home to around 60 animal species, the park supports herds of elephant and buffalo that often number into the hundreds. The Luangwa River is also home to multitudes of crocodiles and hippopotamus. There are over 400 species of bird, including 39 types of raptor and 47 migrant species.

In addition to the abundant wildlife, the changing seasons add another dimension to South Luangwa’s richness. The dry, bare winter bushveld gives way to a lush, green wonderland in the rainy summer months.

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Marvelous Mfuwe

jacis-lodgesThere are two main areas of South Luangwa National Park that are accessible to visitors: the Mfuwe sector and the Nsefu sector. We had the privilege of visiting both. We started near Mfuwe Gate, the main entrance to the park, which has a bridge across the Luangwa River.

This is an ideal place for less experienced safari visitors to start, as game concentrations are high. However, it’s also the busiest part of the park. At times it can get a bit frenzied, as safari vehicles jockey to get the best views at lion kills or wild dog sightings.

Our first port of call was Track & Trail River Camp, a short distance from the Mfuwe Gate. The highlights of our stay here were the two dramatic lion kills we witnessed on our evening drives. Both victims were pregnant female impalas. They must have been mere hours away from giving birth. To see the babies being eaten before they had drawn breath was a stark reminder of the savagery of the African bush.

On the second evening, my husband decided to skip the game drive. However, he didn’t miss out on the wildlife. While napping in our chalet, he was rudely awoken by a rattle of the door handle. It was a clever baboon trying to get into the room. My husband’s shout dissuaded the intruder, but he could hear it trying all the other chalet doors, in the hope of making a raid on an unsecured room.

Abandoning his nap, my husband decided to laze by the pool, which is raised about four metres above the ground. Emerging from the water after a refreshing dip, he discovered he was almost head to head with a herd of elephants.

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A lioness stalks on the floodplains of the Luangwa River © Peter Geraerdts

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The antics of baboons make for hours of entertainment © Peter Geraerdts

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Night drives in South Luangwa can bring the big thrills of kills as well as sightings of wildlife seldom spotted in daylight hours, such as this genet © Peter Geraerdts

Deeper into South Luangwa

From Mfuwe, we moved deeper into the park to the Nsefu sector. The atmosphere here is remote, quiet and slightly more exclusive. Some of the most experienced guides in the Luangwa Valley work in the Nsefu sector and it’s probably also the most game-intensive area of the park. It’s known in particular for exceptional leopard sightings.

wild-frontiersLodges and camps in this part of South Luangwa are only open in the dry season, from early May to the beginning of November. Because lodges here aren’t open all year, the animals don’t have constant exposure to people. They are less accustomed to vehicles and visitors, so the game viewing feels more natural.

We stayed at three stunning lodges in Nsefu, each special in its own way. Tafika Camp is on the banks of the Luangwa River, just outside the park boundaries. We took drives into the park with co-owner and safari manager Bryan Jackson, who has been guiding in Luangwa for more than 20 years. On one of them, a group of four young male lions were happy for us to park just a hair’s breadth away while we sat watching them relax in the shade.

One evening during dinner at Tafika, the first rains of the season arrived – a welcome relief from the oppressive heat. The next morning, we found strange sliding prints all around our chalet. Luangwa’s infamous sticky black cotton soil becomes extremely slippery when wet, and it appeared that hippos had been skating around in the mud while we slept.

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Enjoying views of the Luangwa River and its resident hippos on a walking safari © Shenton Safaris

© Shenton Safaris

Thanks to the high concentrations of prey animals, game drives in South Luangwa are likely to deliver predators too © Shenton Safaris

Elephants move like ghosts through the twilight in a leadwood forest © Peter Geraerdts

Elephants move like ghosts in the twilight of a leadwood forest © Peter Geraerdts

Hiding out with the locals

On the west bank of the Luangwa River, inside South Luangwa National Park, are Shenton Safaris’ Kaingo and Mwamba camps. To save ourselves a long drive, we left our vehicle at Tafika Camp and canoed a short distance across the river. We clambered up the bank on the other side and into a waiting safari vehicle.

wildshot-safariDerek Shenton, who created the camps, took us on a tour of three of his famous hides. The first was a permanently anchored boat in the river, facing a bank where a large colony of carmine bee-eaters have excavated their nests. We sat in the hide watching the birds swoop over the water, darting in and out of their burrows to feed their young.

At Mwamba camp, we were concealed directly in front of a waterhole, at eye level with impalas, kudu, buffalos and warthogs as they took turns to drink. We were so close that we could see and hear drops of water falling from their mouths between sips. Guinea fowl, Lilian’s lovebirds and weavers darted between the animals.

At the third hide, we were almost close enough to touch the oxpeckers hopping along the backs of a large pod of hippos. As we sat watching the hippos and their nursery of youngsters, a family of elephants, also accompanied by several babies, came to drink just a few metres in front of us. Although they appeared oblivious to our presence, I felt that the piercing gaze of the matriarch occasionally seemed to look directly through the hide and straight into my eyes.

On drives at Kaingo we spotted so many lions that we were in danger of becoming blasé about them. To top it all, we had a fabulous sighting  of a leopard stretched out on a tree branch. When we came back to check on her later, we found her feeding on a kill she’d left concealed in the undergrowth while she slept.

A leopard guards its prey in a tree © Peter Geraerdts

A leopard guards its kill © Peter Geraerdts

A carmine bee eater in flight © Peter Geraerdts

Carmine bee-eaters nest in colonies on the banks of the Luangwa River © Peter Geraerdts

A puku leaps across the Luangwa River while being chased by wild dogs © Peter Geraerdts

A puku leaps across the Luangwa River while being chased by wild dogs © Peter Geraerdts

Wild dogs and dagga boys

poriniWe paddled back across the river from Kaingo, collected our car, and drove on to Nsefu Camp. Built in 1951, before South Luangwa had even been declared a national park, it’s situated on a picturesque bend of the Luangwa River.

This spot is perfect in two ways. Firstly, a well-positioned chair in the shade makes for a very scenic location to read, relax and look out for local wildlife. Secondly, and more importantly, the camp is ideally positioned to catch a welcome river breeze on hot days at the end of the dry season.

On one early morning walk at Nsefu, we found ourselves amongst a herd of buffalo several hundred strong. Suddenly, we heard a loud and anguished bellow. Two buffalos had been involved in an altercation. The result was that the horn of one had been wedged into the posterior of the other, producing understandable cries of distress.

Fortunately the horn was extracted without too much delay and the two continued on their way – although the injured party might have been limping slightly. On our final night at Nsefu, we watched nine wild dogs demolishing the carcass of an impala, stripping it of the meat and organs and leaving only the skin, head and skeleton behind.

A wild dog chases a hooded vulture away in South Luangwa © Peter Geraerdts

A wild dog chases a hooded vulture in South Luangwa © Peter Geraerdts

Walking close to large herds of buffalo is a thrilling adventure © Shenton Safaris

South Luangwa is famous for its walking safaris – and for its large herds of buffalo © Shenton Safaris

© Robin Pope Safaris

Enjoying the sunset on a bend in the river at Nsefu Lodge © Robin Pope Safaris

No need to leave the lodge

Our final stop was Kafunta River Lodge. The night before we arrived, a large tree had fallen over inside the camp. We were greeted by a whole family of elephants, including a tiny baby, feasting on the fallen branches right there in the middle of camp. These elephants are frequent visitors and we repeatedly saw them wandering through the grounds.

The dining area at Kafunta looks out over a floodplain and a waterhole, both full of wildlife from before sunrise to well after sunset. First thing in the morning come the giraffes, followed by buffaloes, elephants, and impalas. Along with the resident hippos and plenty of birdlife, you barely need to leave the lodge to see some amazing things.

When drilling for a borehole some years ago, Kafunta struck gold, unexpectedly tapping into a natural hot water spring. This spring now flows into a hot tub that also overlooks the waterhole. However, with temperatures in the mid-40s during our stay, we hadn’t been tempted to try it.

But, as the sun went down on our final day in South Luangwa, dark clouds gathered and thunder rumbled promisingly. When the skies opened and rain fell in sheets, the hot tub was the perfect place to sit. Up to our waists in warm water, with refreshing cold drops falling on our shoulders, a gin & tonic in hand, and hippos huffing and puffing below us, it was a truly magical end to a magical visit.

Herons greet the dawn in South Luangwa National Park © Peter Geraerdts

Herons greet the dawn in South Luangwa National Park © Peter Geraerdts

To find out where to stay in South Luangwa, continue reading below the advert

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Where to stay in South Luangwa

Compared to other great safari destinations such as Kruger or the Serengeti, South Luangwa is relatively remote. The upside is that visitor numbers are still limited. Despite this, there are plenty of first-rate safari companies and lodges operating in the park, all of whom can assist you in planning a South Luangwa safari.

Track & Trail River Camp is run by Kirsten Gottenkieny and Peter Geraerdts, and specialises in photographic safaris. Accommodation includes single and double-storey chalets, and a campsite with elevated platforms. The restaurant offers panoramic views, and the elevated swimming pool allows you to keep an eye on hippos and crocodiles in the river.

Remote Africa Safaris have four intimate camps, including Tafika Camp, all built by local villagers from natural materials. Guests can look forward to a phenomenal array of fauna and flora, a variety of unusual safari activities and the constant involvement of the owners, John and Carol Coppinger and Bryan Jackson.

Shenton Safaris offer high quality photographic safaris, including game drives, night drives, walking safaris, hide trips and special camp outs. Kaingo and Mwamba camps are the creations of the Shenton family, which has three generations of wildlife conservation in Southern Africa.

Robin Pope Safaris are specialists in mobile walking safaris in South Luangwa National Park. Their historic Nsefu camp welcomes just twelve guests in six original brick and thatch rondavels with en-suite facilities. Each room opens up to what can simply be described as the best view in the South Luangwa.

Kafunta Safaris have been in the South Luangwa Valley for 20 years and promise guests all the comfort and excitement an African safari can offer. You can choose from their classic safari lodge, Kafunta River Lodge, a rustic and adventurous wilderness camp, Island Bush Camp, or a brand new and fabulously located tented camp, Three Rivers Camp.

The fabulous hot tub at Kafunta River Lodge, fed by a natural hot spring and looking out over the game rich floodplain.

The fabulous hot tub at Kafunta River Lodge, fed by a natural hot spring and looking out over the game rich floodplain.

The Robin Pope Safaris’ Mobile Walking Safaris have long been known as the best wilderness experience of the South Luangwa. Guests spend five days walking through the north of the park.

The Robin Pope Safaris’ mobile walking safaris have long been known as the best wilderness experience of the South Luangwa. Guests spend five days walking through the north of the park.

How many elephants can you spot enjoying Track & Trail River Camp?

How many elephants can you spot enjoying Track & Trail River Camp?

In addition to the indoor ensuite bathroom, each chalet has a stunning outdoor bathtub with shady views of a pod of hippos. A special feature of Kaingo are the unique individual decks built out over the river in front of each chalet.

Special features of Kaingo Camp are the unique individual decks built out over the river in front of each chalet and the stunning outdoor bathtubs.

Flatdogs Camp prides themselves on offering accommodation to rival the up-market lodges, at a fraction of the cost. Accommodation includes spacious chalet rooms, a unique tree house, en suite safari tents with stunning views, and the brand new Crocodile Nest – a tented house with views onto the Luangwa River.

Marula Lodge has the enviable distinction of being located right next to the main entrance of South Luangwa National Park. The comfortable, affordable chalets provide just enough seclusion to make you feel at home between game drives. Take a refreshing dip in the pool and enjoy food prepared with fresh local produce and plenty of imagination.

Norman Carr Safaris operates five camps in South Luangwa National Park, including Luwi, Nsolo, Kakuli and Mchenja bush camps. Their newest camp is the wildly luxurious Chinzombo Safari Camp. Norman Carr established Luangwa’s first safari camp in 1950 and developed the pioneering idea of taking people to look at animals and photograph them, and of involving local people in wildlife management.

Designed by award winning architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, Norman Carr Safaris' Chinzombo Camp brings new levels of comfort, style and elegance to the Luangwa Valley.

Designed by award winning architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, Norman Carr Safaris‘ Chinzombo Camp brings new levels of comfort, style and elegance to the Luangwa Valley.

The Jackal-Berry tree house at Flatdogs Camp is built around three live African ebony trees (Diospyros mespiliformis) with unspoilt views out across a dambo and lagoon system which is regularly visited by elephant and giraffe.

The Jackal-Berry tree house at Flatdogs Camp is built around three live African ebony trees with views across wetlands regularly visited by elephant and giraffe.

"In November the resident elephant families near Mfuwe Lodge are on the search for succulent wild mango fruits. One particular family takes the most direct route to the mango trees, solemnly walking through reception at Mfuwe to the delight of the guests.

Each year in November, the elephants near Mfuwe Lodge go in search of wild mangos. One particular family always takes the most direct route to the mango trees, calmly walking straight through the reception area, to the delight of staff and guests.

The Bushcamp Company operates six exclusive bush camps in the remote south of the South Luangwa National Park, as well as the award-winning Mfuwe Lodge just inside the main park gate. Set out from any of these secluded, intimate camps and you are guaranteed an unrivalled wildlife experience.

Luambe Lodge is home to one of the largest hippo pools along the Luangwa River. During the dry season several hundred hippos gather in front of the lodge.

Luambe Lodge is home to one of the largest hippo pools along the Luangwa River. During the dry season several hundred hippos gather in front of the lodge.

Luambe Lodge is in the heart of the Luangwa Valley, halfway between North and South Luangwa National Parks. It’s the only wildlife lodge in Luambe National Park and is far from any crowds. The lodge is ideal for adventurous and discerning wildlife enthusiasts.

Travel to Luangwa Valley with Africa Geographic

Travel in Africa is about knowing when and where to go, and with whom. A few weeks too early / late and a few kilometers off course and you could miss the greatest show on Earth. And wouldn’t that be a pity? Read more about Luangwa Valley here, or contact an Africa Geographic safari consultant to plan your dream vacation.

About the author

sarah-kingdomBorn and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain guide, traveller, and mother of two. When she is not climbing, she also owns and operates a 3,000 hectare cattle ranch in central Zambia.

She guides and runs trips regularly in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia, Turkey, Uganda, and takes travellers up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro numerous times a year.

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  • Fantastic review of the Luangwa. This is such a unique and special safari destination which we strongly promote to our international trade partners. Classic Portfolio manages the international sales and marketing for Remote Africa Safaris and The Bushcamp Company.
    Thank you very much for this article which we will share widely.
    Regards, Suzanne Bayly-Coupe

  • Evert

    Can’t wait until July when we’ll be spending a week in SL with Peter, a few days at his T&T lodge but also a couple of days in the Nsefu part! Great to read your experiences.

  • Jenny Waterhouse

    Remember that you don’t need to be rich to enjoy the wonders of South Luangwa! Marula Lodge offers budget options too. It is wonderful, don’t miss it!

  • More about the amazing mango eating elephants of Mfuwe Lodge at https://goo.gl/Q4xEdC